IFSC European Championships Moscow 2020 - Combined Finals

  • Am Vor 2 Monate

    International Federation of Sport ClimbingInternational Federation of Sport Climbing

    Dauer: 7:26:15

    Combined: the culminating round of the IFSC European Championships Moscow 2020, in which athletes will compete for the final two European spots at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020.
    For more information and results, visit: www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1166
    About the IFSC:
    The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
    About the channel:
    On the IFSC channel you can follow the three Sport Climbing disciplines of Speed, Lead, and Bouldering. Follow livestreams, athlete interviews, and event highlights.
    Website: www.ifsc-climbing.org/
    Facebook: facebook.com/sportclimbing
    Twitter: twitter.com/IFSClimbing
    DE-film: de-film.com/us/ifscchannel
    LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/inte...

Molly Kouao
Molly Kouao

I am from Sweden 🇸🇪

Vor Tag
Luke E
Luke E

Unwatchable with those stupid useless masks.

Vor 3 Tage
tamir alizade official
tamir alizade official

יובלללל שמלאאאא

Vor 10 Tage
Günter Albrecht
Günter Albrecht

That red hair lady is literally a spiderwoman.

Vor 11 Tage
Mickie Vasquez
Mickie Vasquez

that Russian guy is a monster

Vor 11 Tage
S Stacey
S Stacey

Hi from Margate in Kent England this is a wonderful entertaining sport there are no losers xx

Vor 13 Tage
tommo184
tommo184

Great commentary by matt. It’s hard to keep it interesting talking to yourself, but he managed to keep it sounding conversational and engaging without a co-commentator. Good job!

Vor 16 Tage
J.W-B.Y
J.W-B.Y

oui mais y avait presque personne, pas la France, pas l'Espagne, pas l'Autriche, pas l'Italie, bref, vraiment pas grand monde... FAUX championnat d'Europe

Vor 29 Tage
Fonzleberry
Fonzleberry

Speed climbing is a different sport and should have nothing to do with lead boulder. One is a pure power/fast twitch based event. The other is climbing.

Vor Monat
fdpettersson
fdpettersson

How could Rubtsov get the 35+ on lead? He barely touched the bottom of grip 36. Nowhere near using it, or even reaching the usable side of it! Compare with Bosi who had is hand on the grip but slipped off.

Vor Monat
Greg Ward
Greg Ward

when was this? Hearing that "one of them will be winning a ticket to the Olympics" .... the ones that had been cancelled? Or are they replacing people that had already won spots to the cancelled Olympics cause that seems fair?

Vor Monat
epincion
epincion

Thanks Matt and your guest commentators - that was perfect

Vor Monat
Ethan Anweiler
Ethan Anweiler

No need to point out which climbers are Speed climbers Matt, its painfully obvious xD

Vor Monat
Anna Swan
Anna Swan

I miss Charlie 😢

Vor Monat
Dmitriy Baginskiy
Dmitriy Baginskiy

Camera work - +++!)

Vor Monat
Tim Dolinger
Tim Dolinger

I adore the camerawork of the IFSC.

Vor Monat
Tupfennase
Tupfennase

I can't understand why so many of you liked Matt as a commentator. I had to mute it almost constantly (I started that after the speed competitions and gave every discipine a shot at being watched with the commentary) because I couldn't stand the commentary. Most of the time simply describing what happened on the screen (more like you would do it for blind people) or 500 time explaining the combined system. Also, Matt mentioned at least twice, I think, that this is such a long event so that you get the feeling that he can't wait for it to be over. Not much Backgroundinformation on the climbers... it really sucked. Sorry.

Vor Monat
asioe kiou
asioe kiou

Lol, the combined format is definitely far more exciting than the pure disciplines.

Vor Monat
Caleb Finley Bronson
Caleb Finley Bronson

slow mo munch of chocolate @6:04:08 LOL

Vor Monat
spit0flip
spit0flip

Combined is so dumb..... speed, boulder, and lead for 1 medal..... it's like 100m sprint, hurdles, and a marathon for 1 medal

Vor Monat
Google User
Google User

Crazy to think how much time will be wasted on speed climbing before it inevitably gets removed from world champ events

Vor Monat
Nzd
Nzd

It's going nowhere, but it will be split off from the other two disciplines for the 2024 Olympics, which will certainly benefit all involved.

Vor Monat
Roman K
Roman K

странно почему медведей на велосипедах не было)

Vor Monat
asioe kiou
asioe kiou

never enough to win but enough to give it a go...

Vor Monat
Roman K
Roman K

fun moments with Marcin 4:30:17 and 6:52:55)) these guys just cosplaying the Black Eyed Peas 7:21:00 ))

Vor Monat
bocoy noiu
bocoy noiu

Especially when that said athlete only takes fifth.

Vor Monat
w0ttheh3ll
w0ttheh3ll

Lol, the combined format is definitely far more exciting than the pure disciplines.

Vor Monat
vbddfy euuyt
vbddfy euuyt

Especially when that said athlete only takes fifth.

Vor Monat
vbddfy euuyt
vbddfy euuyt

Thanks for sharing! ??????

Vor Monat
yokehuatgoh
yokehuatgoh

the other day, i tried to do a pull-up... uurrrghhh... barely managed half a pull-up. lol

Vor Monat
vbddfy euuyt
vbddfy euuyt

2:35:25 I can't stop watching this, so intense

Vor Monat
Rock girl
Rock girl

The combined system is a joke. But if we must have it, at least don't include speed. Really good climbers cannot qualify because of it.

Vor Monat
Sindre Haugland
Sindre Haugland

Watching speed climbers bouldering is like watching a shot putter running 10.000 m. Brutal.

Vor Monat
vbddfy euuyt
vbddfy euuyt

Like to activate.

Vor Monat
ZubairMojaddedi
ZubairMojaddedi

Amazing to see Aleksei smile so much alway knew he had it in him. Great event in Moscow, probally the most organized Championship event i have seen online (not including World Cup 😉, some of those look like amazing events also)

Vor Monat
sagaxus
sagaxus

the commentator seems to lowkey put down their efforts seeing as he gives underhanded compliments and doubting if they'll make it, even though they make the next move right after and is silenced.

Vor Monat
Rock girl
Rock girl

Qué onda?? El show de irse alegando que lo hagan pa callao adentro.

Vor Monat
sehhi vooty
sehhi vooty

natural movement with her foot and clearly had no intention to make use of the bolt, nor got any use out of it. 5:43:31

Vor Monat
Kjanisse29
Kjanisse29

she probably hought it was a hold or something, but you can tell there is some toe hooking there, she even looks down, realizes "oh shit thats an anchor", then releases it. but when she does she doesnt budge, so obviously wasnt using it to "cheat"

Vor Monat
S Muir
S Muir

Love having Matt. he makes the commentary fun.

Vor Monat
Caleb Finley Bronson
Caleb Finley Bronson

Gotta say, the number of times the camera guy zooms in on the foot for women's boulder 3... pretty sure we got it the first time.

Vor Monat
kolim jone
kolim jone

Giggles adorably

Vor Monat
sehhi vooty
sehhi vooty

Qué onda?? El show de irse alegando que lo hagan pa callao adentro.

Vor Monat
SpinTheFlo
SpinTheFlo

One huge problem with the scoring system is that a good speed climber performing under normal conditions (no slip) can never ever get more than 64 points (1x8x8). That's never enough to win but enough to give it a go...

Vor Monat
w0ttheh3ll
w0ttheh3ll

Rishat Khaibullin scored 40 and won the bronze medal in Hachioji 2019

Vor Monat
denzel gregoire
denzel gregoire

The guarded united kingdom uncommonly encourage because gasoline peroperativly step till a wanting valley. psychedelic, stingy step-uncle

Vor Monat
Eric Davidson
Eric Davidson

I finally had time to watch this glorious 7.5 hour beast of an event, totally worth it. First of all, what a wild ending for the men's! It sucks that Sascha won't get to compete in the Olympics, he definitely deserves to be there. I'm sure he will in the future though, the dude's only 22. On the other hand, nobody really deserves it more than Mr. Rubtsov. He's a veteran with a long and storied career, and I was worried he wouldn't be able to come back after his injury last year. The interviews were kind of hilarious, like you're taking these people who are in some of the most emotionally intense moments of their life, who are totally physically exhausted, and having them answer questions on camera in a foreign language. I do quite enjoy them, though. Anyways, it was an awesome event, loved it. Matt had some big shoes to fill, commentating these events has to be pretty tough, but Matt commentated this 7+ hour event extremely well. His unmatched psyche for climbing makes him a superb host. Plus he's (cheekily) a pretty good climber in his own right, and his beta knowledge is appreciated.

Vor Monat
kolim jone
kolim jone

Is anyone gonna tell Matt Groom he laughed at Molly Thompson-Smith for holding her fist up in solidarity, presumably with BLM, in her introduction graphic before W2 boulder

Vor Monat
Pastišas
Pastišas

what are the chances Russians knew boulder problems before everyone else? On M2 it is very clear that everyone used a different method than the Russians. Also some Russians even flashed it and knew that its best to kick left feet back on the dyno hold, even without looking as if they did this many times before

Vor Monat
Maya W
Maya W

The route setting and judging team was international, so it's hard to see how that knowledge would be leaked only to the Russians just because the thing took place in Russia. There's just as much chance anyone else would get leaked the beta if anyone on the routesetting team is chums with an athlete.

Vor Monat
Lora Bielaga
Lora Bielaga

They HAVE done it many times before, it’s their job. These are some of the best climbers in the world, and they are training specifically for movement like this. Obviously there’s no way to know for sure that they didn’t get an advantage, but it’s unlikely. And accusing athletes of cheating with zero proof completely takes away from all of the incredibly hard work they have put in to be as good as they are.

Vor Monat
eioshen boboi
eioshen boboi

2:35:25 I can't stop watching this, so intense

Vor Monat
Maní King
Maní King

Can anyone explain to me why Stasha gjeo was crying if she ended up 2nd?

Vor Monat
Majin Boob
Majin Boob

@HertogHJ She wouldn't have won any medals in the olympics anyway. There are much better talents who've already qualified. It wasn't cool for her to get mad at Molly like that. She seems like a bitch and I don't know why people were rooting for her to begin with.

Vor Tag
HertogHJ
HertogHJ

The big prize was an Olympic ticket for the winner of this championship

Vor Monat
Serge K
Serge K

Ведущиму в зале надо завязывать с мегафоном, что на этапе кубка мира в мегафон орали, что тут, это не митинг.

Vor Monat
eioshen boboi
eioshen boboi

Trop bien ta video comme tjrs

Vor Monat
sam treknilk
sam treknilk

what were the times for sasha and yuval? wierd they don't show up anywhere in the web...

Vor Monat
sam treknilk
sam treknilk

ok saw it on the video now.. wow about 10sec.

Vor Monat
Johann Petrak
Johann Petrak

That travesty that is speed "climbing" ruins those competitions.

Vor Monat
doliio volay
doliio volay

Qué onda?? El show de irse alegando que lo hagan pa callao adentro.

Vor Monat
TryToTech78
TryToTech78

Having to do this combined format to fit into the Olympics is just plain stupid. It's almost as if they would do a combined event for runners where they have to run 100m, 400m, 10.000m and a marathon with the results getting combined for one medal. This doesn't bring forth the best of the best but the best average, which sucks big time imo.

Vor Monat
Mark Mighwurds
Mark Mighwurds

I agree. As several athletes have demonstrated, it's possible to be good (even great) at both lead and bouldering. Speed climbing just doesn't fit. It is, of course a perfectly valid sport in its own right, but it's a bit like making the best figure-skaters in the world also have to qualify in the 100m sprint. It's also rather heartbreaking watching the speed climbers throwing themselves gamely at blocs and routes they'll never be able to do.

Vor Monat
Google User
Google User

@DrakeFire565 you're that dude that wonders why Usain Bolt isn't #1 in 100m sprint AND marathon running

Vor Monat
Google User
Google User

@DrakeFire565 crazy that they haven't realised they should combine marathon and 100m sprint events to find the most well rounded athlete then

Vor Monat
w0ttheh3ll
w0ttheh3ll

IFSC was only given one olympic gold medal to hand out (per sex), so they came up with this. and frankly it's very exciting to watch.

Vor Monat
ArtanisKizrath
ArtanisKizrath

IOC only allowed one new sport for the upcoming Olympics and climbing was selected. IFSC decided to compromise and came up with a stupid combined format. Bouldering and Lead are very similar but speed is totally different. Yes, speed climbing involves grabbing and stepping on holds to make you go up but it's similar to putting sprinters in a mountain trail running race because it involves moving fast with their feet.

Vor Monat
Brendon West
Brendon West

Mad respect to the whole event. And we get to see it all and for free. Thank you to everyone in the background all doing your thing to bring events like this to us. I really appreciate it. 👍👍

Vor Monat
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Vor Monat
doliio volay
doliio volay

4:38:30 if you are not in love you will fell in love in the next couple of seconds

Vor Monat
patricia muñoz quintero
patricia muñoz quintero

Qué onda?? El show de irse alegando que lo hagan pa callao adentro.

Vor Monat
Carl
Carl

the last girl to climb and top had a moment of happyness then yousee the minute her soul got destroyed ;s

Vor Monat
C. B.
C. B.

Hi ! I need some explanation please : Isn't Russia excluded from the next Olympics ?? And about the speed, why is it 1 vs 1 and not like usual speed races, all against each other. I find it very unfair that way..

Vor Monat
Nzd
Nzd

Yes, Russia is banned from competing in "major competitions" like the Olympics but its athletes will be allowed to compete under a neutral banner (name TBC) if they can prove they aren't associated with the doping scandal.

Vor Monat
Kelsey
Kelsey

Is anyone gonna tell Matt Groom he laughed at Molly Thompson-Smith for holding her fist up in solidarity, presumably with BLM, in her introduction graphic before W2 boulder?

Vor Monat
Kelsey
Kelsey

Are people in the climbing world really so ignorant of the current global anti-racism movement that they don't immediately recognize what she was doing?

Vor Monat
François Thomas
François Thomas

If it wasn't for that bolt penalty, Chloe would've been 3rd overall.. Gutted for her, she seemed so done with it all at the end.

Vor Monat
Maya W
Maya W

@w0ttheh3ll could have been the Germans. It gave the German the bronze medal.

Vor Monat
w0ttheh3ll
w0ttheh3ll

bumping Chloe down momentarily improved Stasa's standing, so we can guess whose team made the appeal. frankly, touching bolts shouldn't be penalised so hard.

Vor Monat
Yishai White
Yishai White

2:35:25 I can't stop watching this, so intense

Vor Monat
Jesper Ratzer
Jesper Ratzer

The cup system in the speed part of final is really unfair when you think about it. The speed specialists risk knocking each other out early, and the best non-speed specialists risk getting knocked out early by the speed specialists. It makes no sense to have a cup system in one discipline, and then "an all vs all" in the two other. In racketlon (combined racket sport consisting of table tennis, badminton, squash and tennis), the scoring systems of all 4 racket sports are abandoned, and every sport is played to 21 points. That makes sense!

Vor Monat
w0ttheh3ll
w0ttheh3ll

true, they should consider ranking the speed after the atheletes' best times

Vor Monat
Impera Designs
Impera Designs

The "social distancing" in the crowd is comical.

Vor Monat
bilishu aliss
bilishu aliss

climbing.

Vor Monat
Bastian Dietrich
Bastian Dietrich

"Maybe you have to pull down your pants a little bit." - Jernej Kruder

Vor Monat
stupid_sleazoid 2
stupid_sleazoid 2

I think this whole combined system should be thrown away. The fact that performance of athlete climbing the last decides outcome of first and second placement is just wrong. Especially when that said athlete only takes fifth.

Vor Monat
stupid_sleazoid 2
stupid_sleazoid 2

@Maya W Well, may be we'll get used to this sudden shuffles in the future and it won't be so heartbreaking, but so far it feels terribly wrong. And as someone said in other comment - it opens possibility for plotting (is it correct word here?). Someone who is friend of Sacha and has almost no skin in the game (5th or 8th place, no one cares) could intentionally fall earlier to put him on first place.

Vor Monat
Maya W
Maya W

That's just perception. If he had climbed before Sascha, then Sascha would have never been first at all. It's just coincidence - but it feels worse this time because of how heartbreaking it was for him.

Vor Monat
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Vor Monat
bilishu aliss
bilishu aliss

climbing.

Vor Monat
Matthew Beer
Matthew Beer

I just want to say that Matt did an excellent job of commentating. He has a good balance of "climber geek" appeal, along with doing some nice educating to bring newer folks up to speed, and a little personal/emotional realness. Really good stuff. I hope he sticks around for these competitions in the future.

Vor Monat
SpinTheFlo
SpinTheFlo

He has potential but needs to find his stride and also hold his breath more when he finds nothing to comment on

Vor Monat
Piero Cus
Piero Cus

Much much better than Charlie. I never enjoyed his commentary in all these past years to be honest

Vor Monat
Nina Moor
Nina Moor

Виктория - победительница! Боролась до последнего. Молодчина. Достойная победа.

Vor Monat
Andrew M
Andrew M

my god watching speed climbers try to boulder or lead is brutal. The olympics are going to suck

Vor Monat
Cody Southerland
Cody Southerland

It’s still wild to me that it’s scored with equal weight to bouldering and lead in combined comps

Vor 12 Tage
epincion
epincion

Fortunately the Olympic format is not set in stone since in 2021(Tokyo) and 2024 (Paris) the sport is considered a 'candidate sport' to allow for changes. There already is some talk that in Paris speed will be separated out. I agree its utterly ridiculous that the best speed climbers basically will never get near an Olympic games because they suck at boulder and lead. Speed in my mind fits in more with the Extreme Games/Gladiator sport world.

Vor Monat
w0ttheh3ll
w0ttheh3ll

they'll be training hard to not suck quite so badly at boulder and speed, though. the covid delay gives them more time to do so.

Vor Monat
Maya W
Maya W

@Kard Nails Yes, a few got through. Maybe three or four.

Vor Monat
Kard Nails
Kard Nails

Are any speed climbers going to the olympics anyway?

Vor Monat
Милена Стин
Милена Стин

ничего не понятно, почему у Хлои было 30, а стало 21 в последней дисциплине и соответственно 5 место вместо 3 по итогу?

Vor Monat
8wichi
8wichi

Она задела левой ногой шлямбур на уровне 21 зацепы, как бы сделав подхват носком. Не знаю насколько ей это помогло и помогло ли вообще, но увы правила🤷🏻‍♀️ (на 5:43:34 видно)

Vor Monat
Bob Kelly
Bob Kelly

Denied 6:52:55

Vor Monat
Plisi K
Plisi K

People like (6:42:17) this are the reason why we cannot have events with crowd in most countries at the moment. This is just extremely selfish behaviour.

Vor Monat
Google User
Google User

Yeah if only everyone acted like robots instead of human beings

Vor Monat
Nzd
Nzd

What a great week, I've missed watching these comps so much! Any number of the climbers would have been worthy winners, but congratulations to Alexey and Viktoria. It's a shame (for them) that they won't be allowed to represent their country at the Olympics.

Vor Monat
Ben Nordstrom
Ben Nordstrom

Thanks for the live stream! Too bad combined format is such garbage. Congratulations to the competitors.

Vor Monat
Nzd
Nzd

@Google User There's only one Olympic medal available for climbing. Without a combined format, it would have gone to speed and we'd have had no bouldering or lead. Would you rather have that? This constant moaning is as fruitless as it is tedious.

Vor Monat
Google User
Google User

@Nzd seems like 99% of people don't agree with you, crazy to think about that

Vor Monat
Nzd
Nzd

Get over it.

Vor Monat
Eric Connor
Eric Connor

everyone has gotten so good at speed climbing. 4:09:20 myy god. His beta is sick. so sad he didnt top it. Those last few Men's lead red points....that's almost speed climbing. A bit upsetting that such an important olympic seat came down to time. oh man, poor Staja and Sasha. Congratz to Alexei. Never heard of the female winner though.

Vor Monat
pida siouy
pida siouy

2 announcers or 1 and a guess is always better imo.

Vor Monat
A W
A W

Congrats to the routesetters, very interesting Routes and Boulder Problems (f*** Speed)

Vor Monat
T PA
T PA

2 announcers or 1 and a guess is always better imo.

Vor Monat
cheznikos
cheznikos

Wow, very happy for Alexey but man so sad for sacha. Can't think of a more horrible way to miss the one spot. Pretty nasty of route setters to let this be decided on time. That's not climbing.

Vor Monat
On my way to 8a
On my way to 8a

Rubtsov is not going to the Olympics sor Sascha is getting his place.

Vor 25 Tage
pida siouy
pida siouy

table.

Vor Monat
Patrick Seipt
Patrick Seipt

Dont they have to clean the lead route after Viktoria bleed on some holds? in Boulder u are not allowed to climb with bloody fingers and holds get cleaned

Vor Monat
Lukas4182
Lukas4182

Can anyone explain to me how luzhetskii ranked 2nd in speed with almost the worst time? Look at 1:20:30

Vor Monat
Johannes Roth
Johannes Roth

The times in the table are the times in the last run. He lost the final with almost the worst time but thus is in second place, he won all other rounds (being quicker as well). The time is not what divides the table, it's the individual head to heads (and yes, speed climbing rules are confusing, sometimes fastest time, sometimes just head to head counts)

Vor Monat
Karim Chahine
Karim Chahine

Something is wrong, in principle, with this scoring system. Climber's A position relative to climber B should not depend on what other athletes do. I understand that it's simpler to use the position in each discipline to make the final leaderboard but it's absurd that Sascha could have been consider better than Aleksej had the last competitor slipped or something

Vor Monat
w0ttheh3ll
w0ttheh3ll

@Karim Chahine oh, I get it now. you're right.

Vor Monat
Karim Chahine
Karim Chahine

@w0ttheh3ll I don't see what you mean. If absolute points are given to athletes then the relative position of any two climbers wouldn't depend on the position of the other ones. This way the final score wouldn't depend on the ranking in each discipline. With absolute points I mean something like "topping 3 boulder with 4 attempts will give you X points" ecc..

Vor Monat
w0ttheh3ll
w0ttheh3ll

@Karim Chahine This alternative you're proposing would still have the same characteristic that you're compaining about. If climber A is bumped down in one discipline by climber B the overall standing can still change for the benefit of climber C. it's hard to see how that could be avoided.

Vor Monat
Yann Ponty
Yann Ponty

​@Maya W Just when I thought I was the only freak out there thinking of the multiplicative system as a sum of logs, and thus an additive one with non-linear rankings... :)

Vor Monat
Maya W
Maya W

You do need to remember that the moment would have *felt* a lot less heartbreaking if Yuval hadn't come last. It's only a coincidence that he climbed right after Sascha and a second faster or however much it was. Had Yuval climbed first, Sascha would have never been in the lead and seen it taken away like that. This way it felt a lot more unfair, somehow.

Vor Monat
Himbeersirup
Himbeersirup

I must say that I already miss Charlie Boscoe. While Matt isn't bad, on his own he doesn't seem to have much to say. There are long pauses in the commentary, and most of what he did say was commenting the chat, greeting people, talking about breakfast, and other irrelevant topics. He gave almost no information on the climbers, and he didn't really comment on the performance of the athletes beyond what we could see for ourselves ("His foot slipped.").

Vor Monat
Eric Davidson
Eric Davidson

Charlie was excellent, but I think Matt did really well for his first event. It has to be extremely difficult to solo-commentate a 7+ hour competition.

Vor Monat
lastxwords12345
lastxwords12345

If you have the same score in bouldering they don't look at the time. You're both 1st. If you have the same score in lead it's suddenly a speed competition. This format is so unfair. Also the speed winner is most of the time so sad to watch the struggles in boulder and lead. If you start in the speed round against the speed specialist, the best you can do is the 5th place! Why not looking at the fastest time? Hurdurdurr xD

Vor Monat
lastxwords12345
lastxwords12345

@Nzd oh that's much better!

Vor Monat
A W
A W

@Nzd ok, I thought it’s only combined

Vor Monat
Nzd
Nzd

@A W No, the 2024 Olympics will have two medals on offer for climbing. Speed will be on its own, and there'll be a combined format for Lead and Bouldering. This has been pretty much confirmed now.

Vor Monat
Maya W
Maya W

Yeah, I imagine the racing aspect in the speed discipline is just because it's more 'spectacular'. Since the IOC only wanted speed climbing to be in the Olympics originally, I assume this was the only way to convince them. And I agree, speed on the lead wall shouldn't matter beyond climbing it within the six minutes. I would almost argue that benefits boulderers over 'classic' lead climbers, who climb slow but pace themselves and regain lots from resting.

Vor Monat
A W
A W

Agreed but I think the reason for this is Olympia that only offers combined. So every climber tries to go to Olympia. Next Olympia will have 4 climbing disciplines : Lead, Speed, Bouldering and combined, I think and hope

Vor Monat
Prusik Mallorca
Prusik Mallorca

Awesome!!! huge congrats to the winners and to Sascha Lehmann (great sportsmanship)

Vor Monat
Christian Wirawan
Christian Wirawan

Amazing finals

Vor Monat
Ben Dover
Ben Dover

Every time I watch one of these combined formats it just reminds me how useless speed climbing is as a sport/how terrible most speed climbers are at real climbing

Vor 2 Monate
IT-O
IT-O

I dont see speedrun of Mario as olympic discipline, why should speed climbing?

Vor Monat
Nzd
Nzd

Yawn

Vor Monat
난닥훈
난닥훈

5:53:23 this is blood???

Vor 2 Monate
Joseto
Joseto

Yes

Vor Monat
Cyberdactyl
Cyberdactyl

The camera crew is absolutely HORRIBLE for the woman's bouldering event! 03:10:18

Vor 2 Monate
RadialSymmetry00
RadialSymmetry00

I wondered why a tiny slippy foot hold was highlighted again and again, one shot is enough.

Vor Monat
Cyberdactyl
Cyberdactyl

@Himbeersirup Nah, if Chloe's fall was available it would have been included in the final production. It was simply not captured by the camera crew. The guy's running the cameras did not coordinate at all as well as way too much ultra closeups of toes or fingers or jewelry. 02:29:25

Vor Monat
Himbeersirup
Himbeersirup

It's not the camera crew. The actual filming if fine, and the camera crew provide great shots. I especially love the close ups and the view from the top of the route down. What is horrible is how the technical director / vision mixer – that is, the person who switches between the different video sources and "cuts" the final stream – jumps from one camera angle to another in a way that makes it impossible for viewers to make sense of the climbing.

Vor Monat
Secret !
Secret !

The bolsheviks are at it again.

Vor 2 Monate
Msdubs007
Msdubs007

Suspect route setting yet again at least they kept it consistent all week. The most disappointing week of comp climbing in recent history. How many times can you undercook a route? Apparently quite a few times.

Vor 2 Monate
Cyberdactyl
Cyberdactyl

The "social distancing" in the crowd is comical.

Vor 2 Monate
Neura Link
Neura Link

As the idea about social distancing as well

Vor Monat
SpinTheFlo
SpinTheFlo

Haven't you heard Alexey? "Moscow is almost save " ;-)

Vor Monat
Cyberdactyl
Cyberdactyl

@Gundro A I'm talking about the joke of separating the crowd by one chair. That might offer a 10% reduction of COVID transfer over sitting directly next to someone.

Vor Monat
Gundro A
Gundro A

If they are families or people that live together then there is no need to distance

Vor Monat
ecksdee
ecksdee

Iwa Kakeru

Vor 2 Monate
Nifi
Nifi

Oh damn, you've watched that too? Nice👌

Vor Monat
vitarlaeda
vitarlaeda

People keep saying that Rubtsov won with help of Yuval, but it's just a perception. If Yuval would have climbed ahead of Sasha than Sasha would have never been on top of the table.

Vor 2 Monate
Herman Claeys
Herman Claeys

The leadspeedclimbing is a joke and made time decide...

Vor Monat
vitarlaeda
vitarlaeda

Additional point: They got adjacent places in speed and Rubtsov's expected win in bouldering: 1 vs 3 (or 1 top more) is slightly stronger than Sasha's expected win in lead: 2 vs 4 (or 1 move more).

Vor 2 Monate
Peter Mozuraitis
Peter Mozuraitis

2:46:05 A wild Adam Driver in a disguise appears

Vor 2 Monate
Krueppel Muecke
Krueppel Muecke

I thought exactly the same xD

Vor Monat
Juan _Cvll
Juan _Cvll

In my opinion multiplying scores system isn´t fair. It benefits the athletes that get the first position in one discipline but aren´t that good in the two others. In order to find the most skilled climber in the combined format, they should sum up their score, not multiply it. Because that way, you really reward the most complete athlete. With the actual format, you reward athletes that are brilliant in one discipline and just average in the others. Again, just my opinion :)

Vor 2 Monate
Maya W
Maya W

I agree this system is bad, but summing just does not work either. Too many ties, and as indicated, someone who comes third in everything would still win from someone who comes first, first and eighth. That doesn't make sense from a viewer's perspective - if someone dominates two disciplines, you expect them to win. They need some sort of logarithmic system for it to be fair, but I guess the IOC would argue it's too difficult for the audience to understand.

Vor Monat
Дмитрий Бабий
Дмитрий Бабий

@Juan _Cvll combined discipline is not fair at all, but product allows to see top specialists, as for me it is much better than competition for average climbers.

Vor Monat
Alexander Rybalkin
Alexander Rybalkin

​@Juan _Cvll Lol. Sum rule produces a lot of ties. Just for interest try to recalculate qualification round using sum. As result most of ranking will be done by additional parameters. And I bet that "sum fans" will be first who starts whining that it's unfair

Vor Monat
Juan _Cvll
Juan _Cvll

@Maksim Zhelnin First of all, they are only 8 in the final. And, yes, for me that's fair. No matter how good you are in two disciplines if in the other one you are very bad. A combined champion has to be good in the three of them. With the multiplying way, you let athletes focus on their favourite discipline and "forget a bit" about the others. With the sums, you force every athlete to improve and work out their weaknesses

Vor Monat
Maksim Zhelnin
Maksim Zhelnin

1+1+10 = 4+4+4??? That's not fair

Vor Monat
Sergio T
Sergio T

What an event! What a final. This had it all!

Vor 2 Monate
Herman Claeys
Herman Claeys

Are you serious? What about the leadspeedclimbing in the combined? A new discipline has been invented.... So sad...

Vor Monat
ICKYMACK
ICKYMACK

the weird little "out of time" whistle in the bouldering round is so ridiculous

Vor 2 Monate
Nick Kerpan
Nick Kerpan

A delight hearing Matt Groom doing commentary!

Vor 2 Monate
a b
a b

agreed, he makes it enjoyable even for non-climbers

Vor Monat
Levente Salma
Levente Salma

If anyone ever climbed an onsight knows that Segei Lutzhetski's lead climb doesn't look like one

Vor 2 Monate
cheznikos
cheznikos

Kruder saved the commenting for men boulders. Guess Matt is fine but only in cooperation with someone who has a clue.

Vor 2 Monate
cheznikos
cheznikos

@Matthew Beer if you're a beginner and don't understand much to begin with I could see that.

Vor Monat
Matthew Beer
Matthew Beer

That's funny. I feel just the opposite.

Vor Monat
Sergei Nemtsov
Sergei Nemtsov

IT WAS LEGENDARY

Vor 2 Monate
Albert Abuzarov
Albert Abuzarov

To hold international competitions in Russia in 2020 is similar to holding Olympics in Germany in 1939

Vor 2 Monate
Albert Abuzarov
Albert Abuzarov

@IT-O yes, believe or not, I'm comparing modern Russia to nazi Germany. Because these regimes are very similar. Just one little example: both in Nazi Germany and in Russia gays were persecuted by the state, tortured and executed. And no, I'm not saying sport is bad. I'm just saying it's the same thing as holding Olympics in Nazi Germany, that's all. Sport was "uniting and beautiful" back then, and it's still "uniting and beautiful". Yes, sport is uniting, peaceful, etc.,etc, all that crap. But all these beautiful things about sport were not helping jews in Nazi Germany. And they are not helping people who are being tortured or murdered in Russia. You can spray inspiring speaches about the beaty and uniting power of sport all day long, it's not gonna change a bit the way people are treated in Russia.

Vor Monat
IT-O
IT-O

Comparing Russia to nazi Germany? Whats exactly type of commentary that divide people and set them against each other. Sport is about pretty much opposite.

Vor Monat
Albert Abuzarov
Albert Abuzarov

@vitarlaeda it's not about liking or disliking the idea in this case. I'm totally ok that some people like stuff that I don't like. In this case it's morally wrong. Like I said before, it's similar to holding Olympics in Nazi Germany

Vor Monat
vitarlaeda
vitarlaeda

@Albert Abuzarov So you don't like an idea of competitions. But there are people who enjoy comps a lot. I think it's great that those people compete when and where they decide to while you climb as you wish.

Vor Monat
Albert Abuzarov
Albert Abuzarov

@AEG the fact that you are trying to insult me without knowing me says a lot about you. As for the beauty of the sport - mate, I've been climbing for a long time and I appreciate the beauty of the sport. But I don't see much beauty in flags, anthems, medals and other "we're better than you" attributes of professional international comps. National pride has nothing to do with the beauty, in my opinion.

Vor Monat
Klara
Klara

Almost started crying for Stasa, have a lot of problems with the multiplied scoring (as the two last climbers would have changed the overall winners if they finished 1st in lead), but seeing how Viktoriia finished 4 placements ahead in lead, I don't think there's any fair counting system that wouldn't make her the winner of this comp. Still, very strange situation and personally I think adding scores would be preferable.

Vor 2 Monate
stupid_sleazoid 2
stupid_sleazoid 2

has anybody thought about.... adding squared scores? With scores being zero-based??? Honestly, you just can't measure combined score of such different disciplines. Also screw the olympics.

Vor Monat
Karim Chahine
Karim Chahine

Any system based on the position in each discipline will be flawed because the overall position relative to some other climber will depend on the performance of all the other climbers

Vor Monat
Maya W
Maya W

Adding doesn't work either though. Imagine, someone who would win boulder and lead but unluckily come eight in speed would still lose to someone who would come 3rd in all three disciplines (or 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 2nd, 2nd, 5th, etc). That doesn't seem any more fair. The multiplication makes coming first weigh slightly heavier, which seems kinda reasonable. But yeah, so upsetting for Sascha that he had the win in hand and loses it because the last climber tops two seconds faster than him...

Vor 2 Monate
R
R

Why was Caulier scored 21+ on the lead when she got 30+? With that she will be 4th instead of 7th on the lead final, and she will be bronze medal with a score of 40 over Adamovska's 64. Was there any penalty for Caulier?

Vor 2 Monate
Alexander Rybalkin
Alexander Rybalkin

@Maya W Rule is ok. But why the f... there are unused bolts on the wall?? Even on our local competitions in the middle of nowhere organizers doesn't allow themselves such crap

Vor Monat
Maya W
Maya W

@R I mean, it was clearly unintentional and I don't think she even noticed until she looked down. It's a very tenuous rule. I hope they do something about it for the Olympics.

Vor 2 Monate
R
R

@Maya W Thank you! I watched back her whole performance and didn't notice that "toe hook".

Vor 2 Monate
Maya W
Maya W

supposedly touched a bolt and had her score downgraded to the hold she was touching while her foot was near the bolt. 5:43:31

Vor 2 Monate
Balazs Villanyi
Balazs Villanyi

The combined system is a joke. But if we must have it, at least don't include speed. Really good climbers cannot qualify because of it.

Vor 2 Monate
Google User
Google User

@SpinTheFlo yeah maybe the Olympics has has its day

Vor Monat
SpinTheFlo
SpinTheFlo

@Maya W that's the problem. Not managing any boulder should be punished more but the scoring system doesn't allow iz

Vor Monat
SpinTheFlo
SpinTheFlo

@Maya W thanks for that insight. It still remains a tragedy that such an old sport as sport climbing has to beg for being at the Olympics... Considering all the cringe sport disciplines that made it.

Vor Monat
Balazs Villanyi
Balazs Villanyi

@Maya W Tomoa is one of the very few who can do it all. I guess because of his dynamic style. That's not smthg usual

Vor 2 Monate
Maya W
Maya W

@Balazs Villanyi Have you ever seen Tomoa Narasaki go? He has the potential to be top 3 in all disciplines. Combined is a fairly new discipline, as time progresses levels will even out more and some people will become 'combined specialists'. The one thing I find a bit embarrassing at the moment is the lonely speed climber who always ends up in a final and then can't get off the ground on any boulders and falls off at the second lead draw. It must suck for them - and it will be a bit difficult to explain to Olympics viewers how they ended up with an Olympic ticket...

Vor 2 Monate

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